Monday, October 15, 2012

Kit review: HelDrake Part 1



Initial thoughts:

HelDrake box art
The HelDrake has been a model I’ve been dreading and dreaming of since I first heard of Chaos getting a “Dragon” more than a year and a half ago. The idea of a Chaos dragon is an enticing one, and combine that with 40K Dark Goth... well the idea of it is enticing to no end. But then I have to remind myself that this is a GamesWorkshop kit. GamesWorkshop has historically not shown to be terribly great with dragon models (The current Dragon models being the departure from this). So… we’ve got a company that’s making a mecha-dragon who has repeatedly shown itself to be largely hit or miss with making Dragon models that is going to be making a chaotic mecha-dragon… I really don’t know what to think.

So when the HelDrake was released there was no question about my getting it if for no other reason than to see how GW went about creating a “Chaos Mecha-dragon” . One thing I am going to be very upfront about is the base. I AM NOT going to use the Games Workshop flight base. I have used it on 3 other models even going so far as to modify my HellShrieker design to make use of it. And I am utterly and completely fed up with it. No matter what I’ve tried the base is only a so-so option for mounting the flying models That come to prevalence in the last couple months.  Instead I am using the 6” flight stand on a scenic base purchased from Dragon Forge Studios.  I’ll be honest, if you’re going to be building a flying model I highly recommend spending the $14 to get a base and flight stand from Dragon Forge. It will be $14 well spent. 

So, let’s get started. 

Unboxing

I purchased the HelDrake the same time I bought the Fiend model, which I reviewed previously.  I opened the box, and much like the Fiend and Storm Talon models I was depressed at the relatively large amount of empty space in the box. Even in the relatively shallow box, the vast majority of the model occupies less than ½ the inner space. The one and only  part that rises above that line is in fact the flight stand and even then that’s because it rests atop the other parts.
A shot of the HelDrake parts in the box showing the ammount of dead space in the box.

The model itself comprises 2 sprues. Unlike the Storm Raven model the part density is fairly high and I didn’t feel cheated on that point. It honestly does feel more like a real model with real options to it.

Construction: Day one

So I unboxed the model and washed the parts to remove any mold reside. As I stated I am absolutely refusing to ever make use of the GW Flight Stand if I can possibly avoid it. So that was the first thing I had to attend to. So I took a piece of ½” PVC piping, tested it’s fit with the acrylic rod and was happy to find it fits rather well. I quickly cut off a piece about ¼” deep and using a lump of green stuff and some superglue attached the improvised mount to the inside of the body. Using a combination of hobby knife and files I carved out the hole for the mounting rod. Since I’m working with green stuff, I need to let it dry so I went to work on the other part of the body.
I decided to mount the body on a 6" Flight stand rather then the crumby GamesWorkshop flight stand. Here you can see the PVC piping I installed in the body to accomidate the flight stand.

One thing I do have to give GW credit is numbering both the instructions and the parts on the sprue. After dealing with the Fiend model this was a welcome change of pace.  However, the early instructions for building the body are somewhat unclear with details. I’ll show you why.
The instructions show attaching the first set of wings to the main body:
the instructions are somewhat unclear about placing the winglets as it makes them appear to be lined up with the edge of the body.
The winglets are actually meant to be free floating relative to the body.

But the parts themselves look somewhat different then the illustrations. The instructions make it look like the edges of the Wings line up with the edges of the body. Looking at the parts themselves you’re left wondering if you’re building it correctly. I finally had to resort to going to the 360 spinner on the Gameworkshop site to see what that showed. The model image did show that these wings do not  actually line up with the edges of the body.

Now I’ve worked with Green stuff enough to know that when I need to wait for it to dry properly before I move on with it. And that’s what I need to do now. Leave it to set over night. So that is exactly what I did. When I returned to it the next morning the green stuff had hardened pretty well and I was able to assemble the central body. I don’t know why, but seeing the model at this stage just kind of tells me “This would make a great conversion for a Disc of Tzeentch!” I’m not sure why or what else would be needed to accomplish it, but there is that mental note for you to chew on.

So far this model is looking to be a decided step above the Fiend kit. Firstly, the instructions are a lot clearer. It’s amazing how the addition of numbers can make that work huh? The second thing is how cleanly the parts go together thus far. Excluding the winglets alignment question there’s little question about if a part has been assembled properly.

I must confess to feeling a certain air of mystery while building this kit. Unlike the Fiend, where you could already tell where everything was going to go by step two, the HelDrake is much more involved kit with many parts working on top of one another. There’s a lot of “How does become that thing on the front of the box?” about its construction.

Sunday, October 14, 2012

Kit review: The Forgefiend/Maulerfiend Part 3

Construction: Day two

So, I’m basically calling and end to this model at this stage. Yes I still have a couple little details to add to the model. I’m actually throwing my hands up and saying “Nope. I’m done with it.” Those of you who have seem my projects and prior review can appreciate what it takes for me to say that about a kit, but the Fiend kit… it just sucks. The construction of it is near brain numbingly simple and yet offers no easy way to allow switching between a Mauler and ForgeFiend out of the box. I can’t really tell whether the designers were brilliant in this approach and did it deliberately or heinously under skilled and got super lucky with it, but the way the kit is designed it would a very capable converter working with extra materials and a pre-understanding of the kit to modify it in such a way to successfully allow switching types between Mauler and Forge. I can say that sincerely because now, after built this kit were I to go back and build another one with the explicit intent to allow configuration swapping I would still require plasticard, plastirod, green stuff, and magnets and know what I was going to do before I began assembling the kit. But, let me complete the review.

One of the key points of curiosity raised about the kit was how possible it is to build it in such a way as to allow switching configurations. Well, not very. At first glance you’d probably think “Eh no biggie. Just slap some magnets in the neck and on the joins to allow swapping of the guns and call it a day.”

Yeah not so much. 
 The Hades canons work alright like this but the ectoplasm cannons are too heavy for these magnets I’ve used to hold the cannons up by themselves.
The other big issue is the extreme ‘staticness’ of the model. It’s completely designed to be in a very static pose either with four legs and 2 guns, or with the fists and tentacles. There’s very little customization ability out of the box.


Next time, the HelDrake.


Friday, October 12, 2012

Gaming Aid: Damaged vehicle markers

I ran across this idea on the blog Ded Ard, and it was something that looked like such a good idea I wanted to give it a shot. Here's the basic idea of it: take one of those battery powered flickering "candles", cut off the plastic 'flame' to expose the LED light, and then glue some poly fill stuffing to the base around the LED. Light spray paint the stuffing with a yellow paint, then spray paint the upper sections of it with black paint to give it a smoke coming out of fire effect. Let the paint dry, turn on the base and viola! Burning wreckage markers that glow!
As an aside I'm considering a variant of this idea for making "Soul Blaze" markers. We'll see how it goes.

Thursday, October 11, 2012

Project Thunderhawk: Shadow Sword ready for operations!

So I finished the Shadow sword. Well finished installing the LEDs anyway. Installing the LEDs was a challenge but not one of ability. The ability to insert the LEDs and affix them to the model required only moderate modifications of normal modeling skills. The challenge was putting the wires in and making sure I didn't cross a circuit somewhere and was still able to assemble the model.

I'm sure you are wondering why I have this tagged with Project Thunderhawk. Well this was intended as a case study in practice for the thunderhawk. For the Thunderhawk I intend to install 3 circuits. 1 will comprise a series of 7 LEDs in the cockpit and embarkation deck which will be on an on/off switch. The second circuit will be installed in the Thunderhawk cannon and be controlled by a monetary switch so when I push the switch it lights up and when I release it, it shuts off. The third circuit I'm still studying up on how to build but that will be the engines.

Now in the shadowsword I installed one circuit that comprises 4 LEDs and are controlled by an On/off switch. This is the Headlights. Sounds a lot like the circuit I plan to install in the Cockpit and embarkation deck of the Thunderhawk, doesn't it?

Then there's the turrets of the Shadow sword. They light up and are controlled by a monetary switch. Just like I'm planning to do with the thunderhawk cannon.


Wednesday, October 10, 2012

Kit review: The Forgefiend/Maulerfiend Part 2

Construction, Day one

I chose to work from the side of the instructions that instructs you to build the Forgefield because if push comes to shove I’ll use a Forgefield over a Maulerfiend in my army. The added firepower would be a nice boon for me.

The main body sadly uses one of the assembly techniques I truly dislike: Halves. Literally the torso is 2 halves glues together. Though the designers did modify it a bit so it’s largely idiot proof . That’s something of an improvement. The connection points for the sprue are largely in open area so cleaning those spots is easy enough. Though there is one spot that’s right between the spines on the back so you will need a smaller file to clean that particular spot.
Some of the filing needs to be done very carefully to avoid damaging detail.
 The neck is likewise 2 halves glued together. The detailing of the Chaos pattern on the back and neck is designed in such a way as to help hide the seams in the pieces which is nice. It means it will only take a minimal amount of effort to hide the seams entirely on the completed model.

The kit comes with 2 heads versions. One is the standard “tongue lashing” head, while the other is the gaping maw for the third Ectoplasm cannon option. Of the two, I find the Ecto head to look better, but that’s only by a point of comparison. The tongue head I feel is the poorer of the two because of it’s design. It has this long lashing tongue that is extending out from it’s mouth, yet the mouth isn’t open. So either the fiend just has a giant gaping hole in it’s fangs, or it uses it’s tongue like a snake and whips it out to taste the air. The later idea makes more sense but is more at odds with the over all image and feel of the model, being one that appears to be more monstrous and bovinian… bovinian? Is that even a word?

Anyway, the tongue looks like it was intended to draw reference from the classic Spiderman villain, Venom with the long lashing tongue dripping in drool and toxins. But in all of those images, Venom’s mouth is wide open. With the mouth closed, it just looks weird. Thus I think the Ecto head looks better because the tongue head looks worse. Not because it’s actually better.


Just because I know someone wants to know.


The Mecha-tentacles are really nice and I expect we’ll be seeing lots of machine monster conversions that make use of these. The designers did a really great job by designing these so that the finished product is large, wavy and yet still fits in the box. They split each trio of tentacles into 3 segments that when assembled form a sphere that fits into the side joint on the body.

 One point I do want to point out is building the legs. For a couple reasons these things are a royal pain in the butt. The instructions indicate you should build the back legs as separate sub-units and then attach them to the body. The ankles of the legs even have jointed segments that would suggest the hooves on the back legs are supposed to line up in that particular way. What is the problem with this? Well if you assemble the back legs like this the hooves are facing out from the body, almost like the Fiend is a Lame donkey that’s frankly kicking it’s feet out.

So how do you address this? Simple. Build the legs, but don’t attach the feet to the legs until after you attach the legs to the body. That way you can make sure the feet are flat on the base.

There is another point in the instructions that I would suggest you not follow: The sequence of attaching the back plate and the vents on the back. Despite my absolute best efforts I was totally unable to align the back plate with the mounting stud, on the back, due to the positions of the spine blades so that I was forced to simply put a large glob of glue on the mounting stud and press the plate into the stud. Now this led to another issue, with the vents on the back. The plate was far enough back, but still forward of the mounting stud it’s intended to be mounted on, that it created a minor obstruction with mounting the vents. I was forced to shove the vents on hard. So what am I suggesting? Assemble and install the vents first, then attach the back plate.

Tuesday, October 09, 2012

Kit review: The Forgefiend/Maulerfiend

Initial thoughts

I’ve heard this guy referred to a lot as “Dinobot”. I’m sorry, but I just don’t see it. I can remember when the 4th edition Chaos Codex showed up. I can remember flipping through it and thinking, well I thought a lot of things about it actually. But the point I’m making is I remember thinking “Where are the monsters?” I mean it was Chaos for crying out loud! You had Oblits, Dreads that were almost as likely to attack your own units as it was to attack the enemy and you had Demon princes. Oh and we had the Greater Demon. Yeah. No comment there. The Oblits were demi-monsters, dreads were… well they were dreads. ‘Nuff said. So… the Chaos Space Marines have all of 1 type of actual monster? There was the defiler but that was very defiantly a vehicle, not a monster. This is a monster! And this is what the Chaos Marines have been sorely lacking in the “Monster” department. That is what this guy is. He’s the big-uber monster that Chaos has deserving for a while now. So yeah, I look at the promo pics of this guy and I don’t see a dinosaur. I see more of a Dinosaur from the Hive Tyrant. I look at this guy and I’m like “OHHH MECHA HELL HOUND!!!!” So lets get this review going.

Unboxing


So I got the kit at my local Games Workshop store… local being a 30 minute drive from work which is itself a 25 minute drive from home for me. Sorry, one of my point of annoyances with Games Workshop is they closed every GW store from Fairfax down to um… I think Norfolk honestly. So now the closest GW store is close to an hour away for me and there’s little else in the immediate area. So, I went to the GW store after work and there were my kits waiting for me (I also ordered the HelDrake which I will be reviewing at a later time). I picked up the kits and meandered for a little bit talking to folks about the kits in question. On the counter there was an assembled MaulerFiend. I wish I had had my phone or camera with me. I would have taken pictures of it. The Mauler is a big ‘un, on par with the Tyranid Monsters including the Tyrannofex. In fact I’m sorely tempted to get a Mauler and Tyrannofex just to model the two clashing in melee combat. The Field’s lashers wrapping around the throat of the Tryannofex, the Tyranno trying desperately to either break free or use it’s bulk as a weapon against the monstrous Fiend…

Sorry, was day dreaming.

Where was I? oh right. Unboxing the monster. So I got the kit home and set to work. I unboxed the fiend and laid the sprues out to get an idea of size and build. At first class it looks like a bigger, less impressive, Juggernaut model. I can’t say whether that’s good or bad. On the one hand it does help carry a unifying look to the various kits, so that if you have a bunch of Juggies next to a Fiend they look like they were made from a similar approach. But at the same time, it’s Chaos. Chaos by it’s very intention avoids conformity. So, I donno. Draw your own impressions as you see fit.


I mean am I wrong here?

I dropped the sprues into some warm water with soap to let them soak and clean off any model release. While they were bathing I took a gander through the instructions. Several people have made comments wondering about the possibilities of placing magnets in the model for the purpose of swapping parts for different configurations. Based on my glance through the instructions I think it is possible to do, so that you will have the ability to field either a MaulerFiend or a ForgeFiend, but it’s going to be rather challenging because most of the joints are ball joints. I think you would need to try and use spherical and ring shaped magnets to achieve this. I haven’t taken a ruler to the parts yet to measure it and figure out sizing. But I did some looking on K&J Magnetics and I found the R822cs-N ring magnets, and the S8 sphere magnets. Using these in combination might just allow you to make the head and arms swappable while more common disc magnets will allow you to swap out of the lashers.

as I absolutely love his bases, I've ordered a pair of Dragon Forge's urban rubble bases, both 120mm by 95 mm. One I'm ordering as a flight stand, the other as the base for the fiend. So I've got the bases on order. I'm hoping they will be in next week. I've got the parts cleaned and am letting them dry right now. I will not be able to get back to the kit until Monday, so my next update won't be until then. I'm afraid. But here is the first part of my review of the Fiend kit. So far my general impressions of the kit are very good. It seems to be a very solid model and a very welcome addition to the series.

Friday, September 28, 2012

Update on powering the Shadowsword

So I was working on the Shadowsword today. Well the left side of it anyway. I installed a pair of yellow LEDs in the head lamps, a green LED on the Lascannon turret as a targeting array and a red LED in the base of the lascannon barrel. Drilling that barrel out was a royal pain in the posterior.

Now there is a couple hick ups in the work. Firstly, the turret has 2 pairs of wires running through it's axis. What does this mean? Well it means that the turret barrely turns. It kind of turns, like 15 degrees or so. I can force it to turn more, but I risk damaging the connections inside the turret. The second problem is the sides of the lascannon barrel. In the process of drilling it out they were thinned down considerably, and the LED at the base of the barrel glows through the sides of the barrel. I'm hoping a layer of chaos black will cover this up.

Sadly, there was another problem. In the process of adding in these circuits, I accidentally short circuited the red LED in the main cannon and it blew out. So the Shadow Sword cannon will no longer light up. :(

Wednesday, September 26, 2012

Thunderhawk... kind of

So I've got the Paperhammer Thunderhawk built. And now I'm working on the next phase of the plan, preparing to build the plastic one. Now as I've said I want to build in a series of LEDs to the model to light it up in various ways. Well, I've never really worked with electronics before so I've been reading up on them and learning how to build simple circuits to accomplish what I want. I'm not ready to begin laying out the Thunderhawk circuits, but I am moving in that direction. One of the best tutorials I've found for setting up simple circuits can be found here ==> TerraGenesis.

Now first off: I am never ordering parts from Radio Shack again! There are a couple reasons for this. I placed an order for 56 various parts (LEDs, switches, Battery clips, ect). Last Monday I received a package. Consisting of 5 of the parts I ordered. I contacted customer service to ask about it. Turns out Radio Shack  does not use a central clearing house for it's online orders, instead shipping orders out on a first available basis from several warehouses. What does that mean? Well instead of getting 1 package with all my parts in it, I received a series of 7 packages spread out over the week.

The second thing, in the order I ordered 1 unit, of 5 9-volt battery clips. What did I receive? 5 units of 5 9-Volt battery clips. So... not only does Radio shack use a piss poor system for filling orders, but they can't even get the orders right. Wow, just total fail!

Anyway, I got the parts in and made a first effort to accomplish installing the LED into something:
Shadowsword cannon... fire!

Saturday, September 22, 2012

Hell Brute conversion part 3

So the Hell Brute is done!

I finished filling in the musculature around the body and on the arm, and added cabling from the fits to the shoulder, and from the back to the hip.  I would have liked to add more detail to the back and joints, but I need to be patient and allow the putty to dry entirely. Patience isn't my strong suit. So I have to call it done at this stage and just come back to it later.

Thursday, September 20, 2012

Hell Brute conversion part 2

So got some work done on the converted hell brute.
I had to go a bit different with mounting the body. I actually have a length of brass rod running from under the base up through the arm into the shoulder. And then the shoulder is pinned to the body. The Torso is largely free standing in this regard. But because I cut apart the abs of the brute and have repositioned it, I have to rebuild the detail for the body.
To help in this regard I put a length of piping in the body and am using that as a base to build up the abs and back detail. I've got a couple lengths of smaller tubing I'm going to use for the hydraulics in the body.












And just because I had the original Hell brute on my desk. we get to the Brothers:

Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Hell Brute conversion

I'm going to taking a little brake from the thunderhawk, for a couple reasons. Firstly because I simply don't have the time to commit to it for the next few days. Secondly because I have to wait for several shipments to come in before I do much more. Next step is exploring the electronics part of that particular project. First thing is going to be wiring up a Shadow Sword. I've got the model kit, just waiting for the electronic parts to show up.

In the mean time I'm beginning to rebuild my Chaos Forces, and with the Chaotic contents of 2 Dark Vengeance sets, a squad of Chaos Terminators and a box of Chaos Marines I'd say I'm well on my way. I have to say as far as snap fit models go thes models from the Dark Vengeance set are excellent! I quickly traded the Dark Angels for more chaos models. So now I have 12 Chosen, 40 Cultists, 2 lords, and 2 Hell brutes. The Cultists I don't have any particular plans for converting. The Chosen I'm looking at for conversion possibilities and likewise for the lord. The HellBrute however... I've already got plans for him and have begun on it.
Got it all cut up, and ready to be rebuilt.
I've going to re-possition the entire model so that the Brute is smashing it's fist into the ground and rather then being armed with a Multi-melta it'll be armed with a Twin Linked lascannon. So you can see I've busted the major components of the model up good and proper and already set to work on the arm. To further differentiate this from the run of the mill Hellbrute I'm also going to changing a lot of smaller details. Rebuilding the arm with different details, changing the head. Removing the chest tendrils and replacing them with deterioration marks.

So, I've got the fingers on the fist cut and repositioned.











I mentioned I was going to replace the head with another one. I was originally going to use a screaming zombie head, but I couldn't find one in my bitz box. Which of course means it'll turn up right after I finish the model.

Thursday, September 13, 2012

Thunderhawk part 11

Wow...

Okay so I took a new job a couple weeks ago. I knew it was going to give me more hours so I'd have less free time for 40k. What I didn't know was just how much it was going to get me in terms of extra hours. A month ago I was averaging 22 to 28 hours a week plus 10-12 hours for school work and classes. In the last three weeks I've consistently been scheduled for 32-35 hours a week, and due to a combination of work load and staffing issues I've been working 45+ hours a week plus the 10-12 hours of school and homework, and I've had to travel a fair amount for training for the new job. So all in all I've been pulling 50-60 hours a week for work and generally when I got home I have just enough energy to  log online for half an hour to forty minutes to check my email, catch up with a couple folks, and then promptly crash for the night. Now things seem to be settling down a bit and I'm getting a bit of normalcy back in my life.

So I've effectively hit a dead end in building the paper hammer thunderhawk.
 it's not that I messed up or have to start over, it's that I've basically reached the limit of working with cardboard and the medium simply will not work the remaining parts. I've also reached the end of the template, which is frankly somewhat confusing since it doesn't include instructions for building the heavy bolter mounts and sponsons. 

But this basically concluded phase 1 of the thunderhawk project; building the paper hammer version.

So what's next? Well now I get to go back over the model and search for problems, areas where the thickness of the cardboard creates problems, areas where the parts just flat out don't work. So what am I talking about?

Well there are a lot of places where the cardboard stacks up in such a way that parts that should mesh up, have a gap between them.
Like so:

Another problem I encountered was that cardboard as a tendency to warp causing a bending in odd ways. 2 really great examples are on the top of the paper hammer thunderhawk:

The upper housing warped inwards, causing the Thunderhawk cannon mounting to angle inwards while the upper body warped inwards as well. A liberal application of glue allows the upper mounting to be attached to the upper body, but if you look you can see the warping.




Tuesday, August 28, 2012

Thunderhawk Part 10

Oi! Wow guys, I am soooo sorry for not posting in the last week or so. I actually haven't been that busy. I've been working on a couple things, and just forgot to post. So let's get this update on the Thunderhawk under way.

Last time I posted I showed you that the main body had been completed and assembled. So that just leaves the Tail, the main wings and engines, the upper stabilizers, and the main cannon. No problem, right?

Well... more or less.
The Thunderhawk sits propped up by a pair of bar clamps while the glue dries to affixe the wing to the body.
The thunderhawk mock up, nearing completion.
As you can see I finished and attached the tail. Sort of. It turns out the model was leaning to the side a bit when I glued the tail in place so the tail fins are somewhat crooked compared to the main body.

As you can see I've attached the left main wing to the body and the engine components to the wing. There are some gaps between parts of the engine and the wing though that I will need to look at very closely when I start translating this monster into styrene.

Now I'm sure you're asking "So why haven't you started on the left wing?" Well, I have started on it. 3 times. I don't know what happened but a couple of the largest parts of the left wing don't match up size wise. You can see this massive 1/4" gap between the panels of the bottom of the wing. You can't see it from the image, but there's a comparable gap between the edges toward the front of the panels as well.
I've taken the parts into photoshop, lined them up, made sure they fit, and have printed off new parts that are glued to cardstock right now. Time will tell if this fourth attempt at the wing succeeds or not.

Monday, August 20, 2012

Still more plague marines


Yep I'm returning to talking about the Plague Marines. I tried to individualize each marine and make them somewhat unique. With this model I tried to show the rotting and decayed armor. So for that effect I applied the decayed technique in large areas, used a zombie head and busted up the backpack a lot. The bit part here was showing the decayed and burst hoses which I had to carve out and replace with lengths of metal tubing.

Sunday, August 19, 2012

Review: Storm Raven

So I had originally posted this review on Bolter and Chainsword.com way back when.  I've decided to re-post it here just for simplicity. Plus it's a nice filler post.

So I've been seeing lots of posts about the Storm Raven model kit, and lots of people's opinions on the model and it's design. Well I decided to stop taking other peoples words and check out the model for myself. Then I decided to take it one step further and make it more of a product review. This will be an ongoing review beginning with my thoughts on the model itself, it's design, it's construction, it's options and finally moving on painting and basing it.

 Initial thoughts



My thoughts about the Storm Raven model can be summed up in the follow passage: The model is very solid and is very impressive given GW's typical vehicle kits. I have very few complaints or suggestions for improvement on the model. The vast majority of my points of concern regarding the Storm raven are from the point of the design of the craft. In short: The model is great. The way the vehicle is designed and laid out I think leaves a considerable amount to be desired. So, lets' kick this review off.
 I left several sections unattached to make other sections easier to paint later on. The pilot and gun servitor are the big points I had in mind. Since I can't paint through the canopies, and I can't prime around the canopies if attached, I left them unattached and will glue them after I paint the sections.














Design
Overall the model itself gives the impression of dedicated gun ship more than a transport. It just seems to strike me as more akin to the Space Marine version of an Apache gun ship rather than an Mil Mi-17 transport. The major problem I have with this vehicle are the sheer number of weapons it mounts compared to it's transport capacity. As a point of comparison, look at the Rhino model. We all know the model can't actually hold 10 marines in battle gear plus internal systems plus crew. There's no question about that. But if you don't really think about it, and just go at first glance the Rhino looks like it can hold the ten marines. So it kind of works if you suspend your disbelief a little. The Storm Raven by comparison mounts a metric crap ton of guns and can carry 12 marines and can carry a dreadnought yet it's transport area is noticeably smaller than that of the Rhinos. So there's this conflict of ideas in the basic design of the model.

If the craft were a dedicated gun ship, say like a flying predator with no transport ability It would work a lot better visually in my opinion. Conversely if it just mounted the nose guns it's transport capacity would be more viable. So just visually the model almost looks like it's a gunship that is trying to be a transport. And it just doesn't work for my thinking.

Moving on from the basic concept, I think the model is just too stubby and short. I really want the tail to be longer and the engines to be further back along the body. I'm also a little confused by the design of one aspect of the model: the number of VTOL thrusters on it. The Presence of 4 VTOLs present the idea that the Storm Raven is a hover craft, but the presence of the Jet engines make it appear to be a dedicated air craft. It can be suggested that the Storm Raven is intended to operate like the Osprey aircraft, switching between engine configurations as operations require it: Using the Jet engines for speed when traveling and making use of the VTOLs during landings, take offs and deployment of troops enabling it to hover in place. But the model itself doesn't bore this theory out because the VTOLs are designed to rotate from the vertical to the horizontal. If they rotated back, like the harrier jump jet's, they could serve as secondary thrusters to the jet engines. I am still rather dumbfounded as to why the VTOLs rotate from a down position to an outward direction, facing out to the sides of the main body. Now that's enough about my thoughts about the design of the model. Let's talk about the model itself.

Construction
So I bought the Storm Raven and quickly opened the kit. Initially I was somewhat underwhelmed by the content. For a box as big as this one, and considering other sheer part density of GW models in the last couple years, I was expecting considerably more parts to the Storm Raven. If you look at the Grey Knight, Dark Eldar Warriors, or Space Wolf Sprues you will notice that the couple sprues you get in those kits are absolutely crammed full of pieces and parts. There is very little dead space in them. The Storm Raven Sprues are much looser with more empty space in the sprues. On top of that, the box is much deeper then is really needed for the four sprues. I really think the box could have been 2/3 the depth that it is and still fit all the sprues in it. I'm not really sure why GW decided on this particular box size. Perhaps their box supplier simply doesn't have a box that's 2/3 as deep as this one. Perhaps something else.

Looking at the parts on the sprue I noticed that the parts weren't quit what I was expecting. I was honestly something more like the Rhino with Wings and something that assembled along the same general concept. I have to admit I was surprised with how the designers went about 'breaking the model' down into it's respective parts and pieces. Rather the pieces are very nicely designed to hide the part edges with in the body of the model. With very little effort on the part of the modeler the points of connection between respective parts can be hidden. Given the different approach that GW took in constructing the model I felt it smart to read the instructions before assembling. So I cleaned the sprues, and left them to dry while I looked at the instructions.

The biggest surprise I ran into was the liberal use of the clear crystal plastic in the model. Based on the images of the storm I was expecting the canopies, one for the pilot and the other for the gunner. It turns out that the model actually makes use of 5 separate crystal plastic pieces. The two canopies obviously are the clear crystal plastic. The pilot also has a clear aiming reticule that is made of the clear crystal plastic and there are two running lights on the wings that make use of the clear plastic.

I was rather surprised by something with the model. The canopies for the pilot and gunner servitor, not the clear plastic parts, but the hard plastic sections. Rather than being one single plastic section that the clear crystal can be glued to, the canopy shield are actually 3 parts. The single large section and 2 smaller canopy runner bars that be attached to the canopy. You can see what I mean in the image below. The red section is one part, while the blue and green parts are two other parts. I can't really decide whether this is good, bad, or neither. They simply are.
Of the entire model, there only a couple points that I can look at say "These kind of bother me" or "That could have been done better from a design stand point." The Hurricane bolter sponsons are one of them.
 My problems with these are 2 fold. Firstly, they sit too low on the side of the body. If you look at the positioning, you'll see that only the upper 2 pairs of bolters can fire and not hit the body.


My second problem with the Hurricane bolter sponsons is the fact that when taken, on the model they take up the side entrances of the Storm Raven, yet do not affect the ability of the Marines in it to deploy through those same entrances. This kind of exemplifies my major problem with the entire model. Even though it's meant to be representative rather than functional, I would still expect them to at least some effort to make the accommodation on the model to have the Hurricane bolters and not block out the two side entrances when the rules don't support the trade off.

The nose turret I'm rather impressed with. The designers did a really nice job of making the turret rotatable with out resorting to the typical "plate on a pin" (like the Falcon turret) that a lot of the vehicle designs go with. I also really like the built in Auspex array in the turret. But again, this makes me think of the model more as a dedicated gun ship then a transport.

When building the turret, I magnetized the parts so I can swap out the multi-meltas, heavy bolters and missile launchers. The only real problem I had with this was the missile launchers. I tried to put metal pins in the plastic so the magnets in the scanner plate would have something to attract to. This approach does work, however I messed up and the metal pins come out the front very slightly. I do not think it will be noticeable when I paint them though.

The Heavy bolters and Multi-meltas were easier to magnatize and simple needed a magnet in the base of each weapon part.

I have to give props to the designers on the pilot. It would have been extremely easy to simply make the pilot and cockpit a series of 3 or 4 parts; one comprising the legs and torso and head, one being the seat, and one for the arms, shoulder and controls. Instead they made the legs, torso, head, right arm, left arm, control board, shoulder pads and back of the control bay each a separate part. While this doesn't seem like a huge deal to the outcome of the model, think about what it means to be building several of these. Unless you are explicitly trying to make each one identical, there will be little variations. The torsos will at slightly different angles, the arms at different elevations, ect. Those little variants will individualize each pilot and provide the ability for the modeler to make something really dynamic with the pilot pulling to one side hard in an effort to pull a hard bank. It's those little details that can really add up to an individual model.

Moving up we come to the Servitor controlled gun turret. Model wise the turret is very well designed and built. They could have very easily gone with a simple Razorback turret design for the twin-linked weapons here. Instead they went with a completely new designed Assault cannon, Plasma Cannon and Lascannon with a new selection of bits for the control system. It's very easy to imagine the Storm Raven being in a fire fight and having the servitor tone out "Acquiring target. Firing."

I have to say I'm somewhat disappointed that they went with a completely different mounting collar for the turret. For the Predator and Razorback turrets, it's simply 26mm collar fitted into the sleeve of the turret base. The turret of the Storm Raven is a hair smaller and uses a pair of inset tabs to 'lock' the turret to its' base. If you look below you can see a comparison between the turret base of the Razor back and the Storm Raven.


I magnetized the weapons on the turret in order to facilitate swapping them around. Due to the size of the axle I had to be somewhat unique with my approach to placing the magnets. I placed magnets inside the weapons themselves and passed a length of metal rod through the axle of the turret. This allows the magnets in the weapons to be attracted to the axle. Simple pressure fitting also helps with swapping weapons around.
Moving further back on the model we get to the engines. Now when I first saw the engines on the Valkyrie model I was thrilled. They look very beaten, worn and mechanical. Very much like something built by man. By comparison the engines of the Storm Raven seem to be something else entirely. They look all together more Cybertronian then 40k Space Marine-ian. Beyond the initial intake at the front of the engine there appear to be no working parts to the engine. if you look at modern day jet engines there are many parts that move, though the vast majority of these are hidden inside the engine compartment. Even so, the engines of the Storm Raven just don't feel like they would actually work. I think the next time I do a scratch built Thunderbolt I'll use the forward intakes from a Storm Raven for it.

 The Wings are the craft are fairly impressive. While they're not overly wide, they do appear to be functional, at least as functional as any sort of machine is in 40k. Like the forward section, there are 2 VTOLs on the wings, one on the left wing and one on the right. I have to say I'm a little disappointed by the design of the missiles. I was honestly expecting them to be actual missiles, not just launchers with the tips of the missiles sticking out. I do really like the fact that there are spaces for the clear crystal running lights. It's these little details that make me seriously consider coming back and wiring up a Storm Raven with actual LEDs and batters so it's lights up.


 And finally we get to the tail of the craft. Now I know you're probably thinking "The tail? What's the big deal with the tail?" Well, in a weird way that IS the big deal. That's not a big deal. The tail seems to be very short relative to the rest of the body. I think this more than any other single part is what gives the Storm Raven it's stubby look. Design aside the tail seems to be the least well thought part of the entire model. The tail seems like it was added in after the design of the rest of the craft almost like they designed everything back to the end of the engines and then someone pointed out that they had not added a tail so they stuck one on, and made some basic changed to where the engines attached to make it look like it was always supposed to be.

The biggest point of.... annoyance I have is in the tail. Actually it's not in the tail as much as it's on it. See the Storm Raven is supposed to have a lifting mechanism to hold a dreadnought in place. So... where is it on the model? I'm expecting a lifting cage with mag-clamps or something like that. Oh... wait... there it is!





 Yup, the entire "Can hold a dreadnought up in mid air" mechanism comprises a single plate detail that is glued to the underside of the tail. It vaguely resembles some sort of clamping claw with a cable spool. So... the Grey Knights and Blood Angels are going to hang their venerable Dreadnought encased brethren from a rope in mid air...? Am I the only one that finds that questionable? And then on top of that the designers of the model wouldn't be bothered to do more then add a plate that you glue to the bottom of the tail that looks as if it itself was added in after the fact? I don't know, maybe I'm just being petty here but I find that a little insulting as a hobbyist. That they're just going to throw that bit on there when the ability it's supposed to imply is 1/2 the reason people will use this unit in games anyway.

So, that concluded my review of the construction of the Storm Raven. I'm not actually finished building mine just yet for a couple reasons. Firstly, there are sections I want to paint before putting other parts on over them. The pilot and servitor being the two big examples. Also I'm going to mount the flight stand on a large size diorama from Dragon Forge Studios. I ordered that the other day and I expect it like Thursday or Friday of next week. I really love Dragon Forge's bases. He does outstanding work and I'm looking forward to using the larger base for the Storm Raven.



 In hind sight, with my intention to paint the pilot and control consoles I should have left the pilot's torso, arms and forward console separate from the rest of the cockpit. Leaving the pilot out would have allowed me better access to the back of the cockpit and the rest of the controls. I should have thought ahead more when I built it. Oh well. Live and learn. That little fubar aside I have to say the cockpit lights very well with only a little bit of paint. I actually tried my hand at blending on a couple of the displays. Annoyingly I can't get my camera at the right angle to get pics of those effort.
 One of the really cool parts of the model is the targeting reticule. As I previously mentioned the display for it is caste in the clear crystal plastic. I added some color to it by painting the center reticule red. It took me a good 5 coats of Baal red to do it.


 I do have to mention that the addition of the targeting reticule only helps to reinforce my view that the Storm Raven model was intended as an attack craft rather than a transport.

 Curious problem I ran into when I went to attach the cockpit shield to the body: It doesn't fit. I had to clamp it down, and hard, in order to let the glue set. I don't know if I built the pilot wrong, or if the piece got warped somewhere, or what. But that shield did not want to go on properly. Major disappointment for the model.
Before I get too far though I need to apologize. I did paint the servitor and the control console for the turret and I had pics of it before I attached the canopy and shield. Where those pics are now I have no clue. If I can find them I will post them.

 Anyway, moving along.
  
  As you can see I've got the boltgun metal base coat down. I got a little inventive and used a make shift wet pallet to paint this bird. For those that don't know what wet pallet is, it's basically a layer of parchment paper on top of a sponge of some form in a bowl. You put water in the bowl and the sponge absorbs it and then you use the top of the parchment paper like you would a painting tile. The water can travel through the paper via osmosis (holy crap I remembered some biology!) and keep the paint wet but the paint can't soak through the parchment paper. It has made a world of difference in painting especially with the larger area of bolt gun metal. It was really nice to be able to use paint for 2 hours with out needing to refresh my ready supply because it had dried up on the tile. 

The base I ordered from Dragon Forge Studios came in the other day. I wasted no time in cleaning it, priming it, and getting some paint on it so I can mount the flight stand on it. I do so enjoy Dragon Forge's work. Anyway, I got the Slate wasteland base and painted it up in martian red. I don't know why, but I've always just loved the look of Grey Knights against a red land scape.

When I build the Storm Raven I wanted to make the forward turret weapons switchable so I wouldn't be locked into using Multi-meltas, or heavy bolters or whatever. in order to magnetize the typhoon launchers I passed a length of steel rod through the piece but I was just a bit off center and it almost came through the front of the missile plate.
 The good news is now that's it's primed black you can't see that almost-fubar! YEAH!

On the GW site, the Storm Raven's pictured there have flat black engines. I gotta be honest... I'm not so keen on that look. I mean the engines already look like something from Cybertron, now we're just going to make them look like cartoon engines by making then jet black? yeah... not on my bird. I'm taking a different approach. First I based the engines in boltgun metal. Once that was dry I went back with a half dozen coats of Badab black. I wanted to take the color waaaaay down on it. To give it more of a metallic black looking. Make it look like the engines actually do something.


 I wanted to add some heraldry to the Storm Raven and I decided to emulate the heraldry I had done on my Grey Knights many a moon ago but I wanted it be a bit cleaner. So I actually used some tricks to make sure I got good straight and clean lines on the heraldry. 




I designed the pattern in Photoshop and then broke it down into the 3 major parts:
The Red field
The Black Box field
The White field

Then I printed out the parts, laid them over some painters tape and cut the tape as needed. I then used it mask out each part of the design as I went. First the red field, then the black field and finally the white field. Once I painted the color in question I pulled off the tape. The effort was about 90-ish percent successful and only needed some minor clean up along the way.